Karina Tess – Unsplas

Understanding fashion can be enriched by exploring the perspectives of experts in the field. In addition, before creating a fashion product or building a brand, it’s essential to grasp what fashion means and how it’s defined by creators, philosophers, writers, and others

In his book The Empire of the Ephemeral, Gilles Lipovetsky explores key questions, such as the historical moments that have shaped the social organization of appearances. For Lipovetsky, “fashion is a new relationship between each person and others, a desire to assert one’s own personality. This desire to express a singular identity—the cultural celebration of personal identity—has been a productive force, the very driving force behind the mutability of fashion.”

Moreover, as Margarita Rivière explains in her book The Corny and the Power of Fashion, “Fashion no longer dictates only the length or width of the skirt, the height of the heels, or whether the tie should be forgotten. Fashion determines the color and style of the season; it shapes what will undoubtedly be worn far beyond clothing: in the mind, in the mood, in the emotion, in the senses, and in behaviors. Fashion has already become identity.”

I have consulted with experts in the field to gain insight into their views, experiences, and interpretations of what fashion means to them. For instance, the following insights come from a conversation with Fina Lunes (professional fashion photographer and teacher specializing in fashion photography at IED Barcelona), Lucius Vilar (owner of a studio in São Paulo focused on fashion and behavioral research, consulting, strategy and positioning, identity and visual universe, collection development, and surface design), and Pilar Pasamontes ( ex-professor and fashion historian at IEDP Barcelona).

These are the questions I asked the three of them

What does fashion mean to you?

  • Fina Lunes: The expression of a way or lifestyle, conveyed visually.
  • Lucius Vilar: In my opinion, fashion is a connection between clothing and the period we live in; it’s always a reflection of our time. It’s complex and can be integrated into various sectors such as economy, culture, ecology, technology, and politics. I believe that, as a cultural vector, fashion has the potential to change the way people see the world.
  • Pilar Pasamontes: Fashion is a very important industry and a reflection of the society of its time.

Why is fashion so important at this time?

  • Fina Lunes: Because never before in the history of our society has the cult of image, in all its forms—from the smallest to the grandest—reached such high levels of power as it does today.
  • Lucius Vilar: I find it fascinating to have the opportunity to tell a story through clothes or a collection. In other words, clothes have always been essential in telling the story of a people, a tribe, a culture, or a country. Fashion has this power—the power to place us in time, in space, and in our social reality. In the complicated scenario, the world finds itself in, fashion gives us the freedom to react; it’s both action and reaction. We can use it to protest and advocate for change. For me, it will always be a tool, a way that I still love, that seduces me, and in which I believe.
  • Pilar Pasamontes: It has always been important. However, now it has more impact because of social media. That doesn’t mean it’s more important; it’s just more talked about.

What makes a designer or a brand successful?

  • Fina Lunes: Knowing how to connect with the needs that society demands at the right time.
  • Lucius Vilar: As a designer, I think we need to make people fall in love. Consumers aren’t just looking for any product; they want something that gives them a sensation—whether it’s a story, the lyrics of a song, the image of an icon, a print, etc. One of the paths we are always seeking is innovation. We work in a creative process, and we must use our creativity to find originality. Given the diversity of the world, and with the ease of online shopping, we must focus on what sets us apart to survive. Nevertheless, we can’t forget our identity; it’s crucial to know who you are and who your target audience is.
  • Pilar Pasamontes: Offer the public what they want or need—hit the nail on the head!

What is the fashion circuit like?

  • Fina Lunes: A game of vanities.
  • Lucius Vilar: The fashion circuit and the phases that a brand or stylist will go through are the same. You need to understand how to work and capture your reality. We must understand our identity, our target audience, our product, the trends, our suppliers, and our objectives.
  • Pilar Pasamontes: The fashion show circuit was once a professional tool, but it has now become a media circus and a theoretical platform for trend knowledge. I say “theoretical” because many times people focus more on the show itself rather than the garments, which is not very serious.

Thank you, Fina, Lucius, and Pilar! So, what do you think? How would you define fashion in today’s world?